PBJ-XX012 Fade Contest


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Pop-up Denim Tapered Slim

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Another style of denim, meticulously crafted and developed, is complete. It might look similar to the deep indigo, typical of the XX-007 or 012, but these jeans have got something totally different. The secret is in the fading. While regular jeans fade to white, these are tailored so that when they do fade, they fade to blue.

Generally, the core of warp used in denim production is left white, while only the outer layers are dyed indigo in a process called rope dyeing. However, the warp used in these jeans is first dyed blue before applying the usual rope dying. By this process you have an end product that is blue to the core. So any wear and tear might shave off some of the indigo but only the blue core will be exposed.

The fit is the same as the XX-011, XX-012 and XX-013, the slimmest in tapered slim jeans. You can expect a well defined, distinct shape around the knees.

The rightmost picture is a pair manufactured to show the effects of fading.

Color : Deep Indigo / Cobalt Blue

Size Chart

size waist front rise back rise upper thigh length knee leg opening
28 72.5 23 31.8 27 88 17.3 16.2
29 77.6 24 32.2 28.4 88 17.8 17
30 79.2 24.3 33 28.7 88 18.6 17.7
31 80.5 24.5 33.4 29.3 88 19.3 18.3
32 84.8 24.5 33.6 30.3 88.5 19.6 18.6
33 85.9 25.7 34.6 31.3 88.5 20 19.2
34 87.5 26.3 35.3 32 88.5 20.7 19.5
36 92.5 26.5 35.5 33 88.5 22 20.8
38 97.5 27.4 37 34.9 88.5 23 21.5



(Blog article content from Pure Blue website)

This is a new style of denim like you've never seen! It's name is "XX-020 Pop-up Denim".

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After a quick glance at them you might think they're just the same as the XX-007 with its 'deep indigo'. But the color fading on them uses a new technique, which is completely revolutionary.

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Here is an example of the fading.

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The rips or loose threads on jeans up to now have always been white, but not with these. If you scratch the surface of these you'll only see more blue underneath.

Generally, the core of warp used in denim production is left white, while only the outer layers are dyed indigo in a process called rope dyeing. So, if the indigo on the surface is scratched the white of the inner layers is exposed. In Japanese we have a word for this, "atari".

The key to making jeans that fade to blue is to dye the core (usually left white) blue first, then proceed with a rope dye as usual. It might sound simple, but in reality nobody has thought of this, of it they did, they haven't succeeded up to now. The indigo blue and the underlying blue of the atari has been developed and tested many times to appear slightly different.

Here at Pure Blue Japan we use cobalt blue or purple in our weft dyes but we've had questions from customers asking 'will the jeans fade to blue?' or 'will they fade to purple?'. In reality those models will fade to white. So, we thought "let's make jeans that fade to blue!". It was a simple conclusion really, but one that we hope will help take jeans to the next level.

Here's a picture showing the blue core of the thread.

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Looking at the few loose strands from the button hole and belt straps you can see they are blue. So if the surface gets bruised then you'll see this color peeping through. On the other hand, here is the regular 'deep indigo'.

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As you can see, the core is white, so any bruised areas will appear white. As mentioned, before any fading occurs 'Pop-up Denim' and 'Deep Indigo' will look exactly the same. But there are a few more differences:

Stitching color (in each area) :

Around the inside of the waist


Roughness of material (Pop-up Denim is not as rough)

The shape is the popular tapered slim fit range. The knees are slim and attract a lot of creases so you can expect a very rich, varied type of fading with each pair.

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The product being sold is the 'one wash type' pictured on the right. The jeans on the left were manufactured to show the effect of fading.

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